September 30, 2022

Who likes their vacation to supply up surprises? Eyebrows have been raised amongst pals after I, a discerningly grasping foodie, let slip that I used to be off to Tenerife to find why it has turn into fairly the foodie hotspot – as long as you knew the place to look.

I needed to style Canarian meals past its justly well-known, completely moreish, wrinkled (seawater cooked) black potatoes.

And visiting my cousin, who has lived in Santa Cruz de Tenerife for seven years, was the clincher.

Curve attraction: The Auditorio de Tenerife live performance corridor in Santa Cruz, which ‘hogs the architectural limelight with its 190ft-high curved eclipse-like roof’

Sudi stayed at the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach hotel (above), which opened two years prior to the pandemic. She reveals that it's 'located on Tenerife's well-heeled southern Costa Adeje... well away from the more brash resorts'

Sudi stayed on the Royal Hideaway Corales Seashore resort (above), which opened two years previous to the pandemic. She reveals that it’s ‘positioned on Tenerife’s well-heeled southern Costa Adeje… effectively away from the extra brash resorts’

All white: A suite at the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach. Sudi said the breakfast at the hotel included 'heaped platters of local cheeses, a Canarian take on sobrasada, every subtropical fruit imaginable, and a bread range to make a Bake Off winner swoon, plus a carving of Iberico bellota (acorn-fed ham)'

All white: A set on the Royal Hideaway Corales Seashore. Sudi mentioned the breakfast on the resort included ‘heaped platters of native cheeses, a Canarian tackle sobrasada, each subtropical fruit conceivable, and a bread vary to make a Bake Off winner swoon, plus a carving of Iberico bellota (acorn-fed ham)’

We’d grown shut on Zoom over lockdown, but I hadn’t set foot in Tenerife since staying together with her mom, my late aunt, greater than 20 years in the past. Then I’d partied all night time on the irrepressibly loopy Carnival.

This time, outings have been just a little extra sedate. My days would revolve round fabulous meals, particularly seafood, in refreshingly reasonably priced eating places, arresting structure, and serene, uncrowded swimming spots.

The breakfast unfold at Royal Hideaway Corales Seashore (barcelo.com, from £368 per night time) my retreat for some severe culinary cosseting – is a paragon of the shape. Heaped platters of native cheeses, a Canarian tackle sobrasada, each subtropical fruit conceivable, and a bread vary to make a Bake Off winner swoon, plus a carving of Iberico bellota (acorn-fed ham) set the gastronomic bar excessive.

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Opened two years previous to the pandemic, the curvilinear resort was designed with sustainability to the fore. Situated on Tenerife’s well-heeled southern Costa Adeje, it’s effectively away from the extra brash resorts. Its suites and their terraces, some with sizzling tubs, all with ocean views, are large, and decked out in white.

Sudi says Royal Hideaway Corales Beach is an 'adults-only affair for food-lovers', so the pools and restaurants are 'blissfully quiet'

Sudi says Royal Hideaway Corales Seashore is an ‘adults-only affair for food-lovers’, so the swimming pools and eating places are ‘blissfully quiet’

A seafood special at Starfish Restaurant

A seafood particular at Starfish Restaurant

That is an adults-only affair for food-lovers, so the swimming pools and eating places are blissfully quiet. The selection of culinary choices is spectacular, with ultra-local sourcing.

Starfish Restaurant has island speciality grilled limpets with inexperienced mojo (coriander, garlic and olive oil sauce); elegant chipirones with slow-cooked onions, large carabinero prawns smoky from the josper grill, and posh hake nuggets with seaweed mayo.

San Ho presents Nikkei delicacies (Japanese meets Peruvian), with standout native tuna sashimi served 3 ways. The rooftop Maresia Atlantic Bar showcases progressive Canarian delicacies by the Michelin-starred, Tenerife-born Padron brothers.

Most shocking is Il Bocconcino, providing distinctive trendy Italian meals, surrounded by cool sculptural cacti. In an unimaginable coup, the star visitor for the resort’s eighth Particular Chef Programme was three-Michelin-star, world-renowned Massimo Bottura, who cooked an exhilarating dinner with resident chef Niki Pavanelli.

Cocktail time at the rooftop Maresia Atlantic Bar

One of the culinary creations on offer at the Starfish Restaurant

LEFT: Cocktail time on the rooftop Maresia Atlantic Bar. RIGHT: One of many culinary creations on provide on the Starfish Restaurant

Il Bocconcino, Sudi says, offers 'exceptional modern Italian food, surrounded by cool sculptural cacti'. Pictured, an example of one of the menu items at the hotel restaurant

Il Bocconcino, Sudi says, presents ‘distinctive trendy Italian meals, surrounded by cool sculptural cacti’. Pictured, an instance of one of many menu gadgets on the resort restaurant

Trailblazing cooks go to the resort biannually. Friends can ebook bespoke journeys to a bio farm, La Calabacera, and its spectacular plantations of platana, small, caramel-sweet Canarian bananas, mangos, papaya, and lychee. Visits embrace a tasting with native cheeses, and palm wine.

Corales Seashore Resort is a brief stroll from Enramada seaside and the fishing harbour of La Caleta, which retains its conventional Spanish really feel. It’s a nice place for a sundown paella.

To really expertise what makes Tenerife greater than a suntan vacation spot, spend a number of days taking the heartbeat of Santa Cruz, the waterfront capital, and historic La Laguna –as soon as the capital, in-built 1496. Each boomed because the island’s commerce with the New World grew. At present, La Laguna is an elegantly preserved college city of Renaissance buildings in vivid sunbaked hues.

Be sure you go to Cayetano Home Museum – a Canarian gem with typical wood balconies. Discover beautiful cafes too – Mollini & Co serves one of the best espresso and patisserie on the island. Keep in a single day at La Laguna Gran Resort (lalagunagranhotel.com, from £128 per night time). It’s an imposing mansion with a rooftop pool. 

Do because the chicharreros – the colloquial title given to Santa Cruz locals – and base days round a late lunch (remember that the majority locations don’t open till 1.30pm). It stays a metropolis resolutely for locals, as vacationers not often go to, besides throughout Carnival. Keep on the Resort Taburiente (hoteltaburiente.com) with its rooftop pool from £73.

For a city swim, Parque Maritimo Cesar Manrique has three saltwater pools 'dramatically landscaped among exotic succulents and waterfalls'

For a metropolis swim, Parque Maritimo Cesar Manrique has three saltwater swimming pools ‘dramatically landscaped amongst unique succulents and waterfalls’

Most bars and eating places are stuffed primarily with residents, so that you’ll discover genuine meals. Bodegon El Puntero is tiny and joyful in its simplicity: painted blue and yellow and adorned with classic carnival posters. All the things is excellent – particularly the octopus dishes. Come the night, Calle de la Noria is invariably buzzy. Its historic buildings are residence to the carnival social associations apart from a dozen eating places – all with outside terraces.

Shut by is the market Nuestra Senore de Africa – a wealthy searching floor for culinary souvenirs from cacti jam and agave honey to mojo dipping sauce, gofio (a curious native toasted grain), turron and honey rum, a wealthy, advanced liqueur with high notes of blood orange and elderflower.

Locals like a chupito (shot) after dinner. Auditorio de Tenerife, the spectacular live performance corridor, hogs the architectural limelight with its 190ft-high curved eclipse-like roof.

For a metropolis swim, Parque Maritimo Cesar Manrique has three saltwater swimming pools dramatically landscaped amongst unique succulents and waterfalls. To really chill, Chicharreros head for Les Teresitas (a fast bus trip from Santa Cruz), a mile-wide stretch of Saharan sand full with palm bushes and seaside bars. Over a knockout native rum mojito, I replicate fortunately: Tenerife actually isn’t the island it was – and for foodies like me, that’s a pleasure.